In the Alchemist's Kitchen- Vol 4: SCIENCE OF ICE CREAM

 Nothing Says Summer like ICE CREAM

What is it about that creamy sweet milk based confection that for many of us is synonymous with childhood summers?  The mouthfeel for me is one incredibly important joy of the soft serve twist ice cream that I favor, and flavor is more important to my husband, Rich, shown below holding his cone in his right hand: chocolate hard pack ice cream with stuff in it like chocolate chips, fudge, or nuts and my soft serve in his left.  We prefer small roadside ice cream vendors and will explore them wherever we go. We also love to make our own old fashioned ice cream and popsicles.

When I was Dean of New students at Amherst College, I was referred to as the Dean of Ice Cream, because each year I would visit each of the first year student dorms and host a liquid nitrogen ice cream party.

 When I visited Turkey, especially in the seaside villages along the Mediterranean, I discovered dondurma.  This sweet ice cream with unique elastic properties has been peddled by street vendors pushing characteristic red and gold carts.  Half the fun of buying a cone is the show that comes along with a purchase. The vendors play with the customers by utilizing the elastic properties to cause the ice cream to snap back into the vendors scooper rather than stay in the cone.  This gives rise to lots of entertainment for children and foreigners who don’t know what to expect from the mischievous purveyors.

What is the secret to the elasticity of the dondurma?  As mentioned in the video, salep, a powder from an orchid root that grows in Turkey, is used to set up a fibrous network in the cream with extraordinary elastic properties.  As you prepare the ice cream, you repeatedly pour the heated cream from a ladle back into the pot so as to align the tiny fibrous networks.  This might be likened to the was gluten provides elasticity to bread, but more so. The dondurma I prepare is served in slices with a garnish of pistachio nuts.  YUM.

 

Ingredients

·       3 g mastic beads (see note)

·       65 g (⅓ cup) salep mixture (see note)

·       750 ml (3 cups) milk 

·       250 ml (1 cup) heavy cream 

·       165 g (¾ cup) caster sugar 

·       ground cinnamon and finely chopped pistachios, to serve

 

Cook's notes

 | 1 teaspoon equals 5 ml; 1 tablespoon equals 20 ml; 1 cup equals 250 ml. | All cups are lightly packed. |  All eggs are 55-60 g, unless specified.

 

Instructions

 Makes 1 liter

You will need to begin this recipe 1 day ahead.

Freeze mastic beads for 15 minutes, then using a mortar and pestle, finely grind with a pinch of sugar.  This will be extremely sticky, so beware the clean up that will be necessary.

Whisk salep mixture with 125 ml (½ cup) milk until dissolved. Set aside.

Heat remaining 625 ml (2½ cups) milk and cream in a large saucepan over low–medium heat. Whisk in mastic until combined, then add salep mixture. Using a ladle, scoop some of the cream mixture, then from a height, pour back into the pan in a continuous motion; this 'stretches’ the mixture. Repeat, stirring constantly, to prevent the mixture burning, for 20 minutes or until thickened. (If you prefer a denser, chewier ice-cream, cook for an additional 20 minutes). Transfer to a bowl, cover the surface closely with plastic wrap to prevent a skin forming and cool completely.

Churn mixture in an ice-cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions until almost frozen.

Meanwhile, lightly grease a 1 liter loaf pan, then line with plastic wrap, leaving 5 cm overhanging. Pour mixture into pan, cover with overhanging wrap and freeze overnight.

To serve, remove ice-cream from freezer 5 minutes beforehand. Turn out onto a board and, working quickly, cut into 3 cm slices and divide among plates. Dust with cinnamon and scatter with pistachios to serve.

 

Note

• Mastic is the resinous sap from the mastic tree, which is native to the island of Chios, Greece. It is available from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Krinos-Mastic-Gum-0-6oz/dp/B0036Z93PO/ref=pd_bxgy_325_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0036Z93PO&pd_rd_r=C79E13E6ZC7D7MP84059&pd_rd_w=3tUug&pd_rd_wg=masV7&refRID=C79E13E6ZC7D7MP84059&th=1

• Salep, the powder from wild orchid roots, is available from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Instant-100-Natural-Sahlab-200/dp/B00DGJGFS8/ref=sr_1_14_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1515876856&sr=8-14&keywords=salep