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Caves in the Cheddar Gorge, near Somerset, UK
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| Supermarket Selection of Extra Sharp Cheddars |
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Close your eyes. Imagine taking a bite of a just picked Honeycrisp
Apple, juice dribbling down your chin, the smell of burning apple wood in the air, the fall leaves creating a golden glow all around you. The only missing element in this autumnal mélange is the
creamy bite of some cheese to go with that apple. My favorite cheese to pair with apples is
cheddar. Read more to find out about the chemistry and physical properties of cheddar cheese and don't forget to check out my family's recipe for our famous Cheese Balls - the snack that almost sank a ship. Cheddar as a Cheese Designation: A cheese with the designation Cheddar has been named after a cheese developed in England in the 12th Century. Near modern day Somerset, the caves in Cheddar Gorge provided the perfect environment for aging cheeses produced from surplus cow's milk collected by dairy farming families in the village of Cheddar. The name is not protected, so today, cheddar can be made anywhere and while it is typically made from cow’s milk, it can also be made from goat milk. Cheddar is available in various varieties
from mild to extra sharp. The longer the
cheese has been aged, the sharper the flavor and usually the greater the price
per pound. Extra sharp cheese is aged
from 12-24 months and with its bold flavor, it is my favorite cheddar to pair
with my apple – but it may not be the best cheese for melting. Ever wonder why?
As a cheese ages, the bacteria break down more and more of
the protein structure – and it is that protein structure that is necessary to
give rise to the smooth elastic creaminess of the melted cheeses. Andrew Floersheimer, a student of mine prepared a video to explain
this which I will load it up here and also offered up these two good video resources.
American Test Labs – tells us that the content of fat
(32-36%) and moisture (33-37%) are the critical factors that influence melting
for cheddars. They chose Cracker Barrel Extra Sharp White Cheddar Cheese
as their winner saying “It not only melted beautifully but was also the runaway
favorite for snacking.” They go on to explain that terroir – where the
cheese is produced – will also definitely influence the flavor as the bacteria
mixture used to ferment the milk contains stock bacteria added by the cheese makers as
well as “contaminant” bacteria that comes from the milk, air and environment and is
regionally determined. For Cracker Barrel, the Extra Sharp White Cheddar
(winner) and the Extra Sharp Yellow Cheddar (loser) are likely produced in
different facilities and thus will have different contaminant cultures.
Colors of Cheddars: Consumers often have a preference for the color of cheddar
cheese they use, or sometimes, they might have a preference depending on the
foods they are preparing. Perhaps a whiter cheddar for a macaroni and cheese
dish or a grilled cheese sandwich but a more robust yellow/orange cheese for a
cheeseburger or charcuterie platter. What determines the color of the cheese?
Cheddars made from grass-fed cows will be more yellow due to the beta-carotene
that is a natural compound in the grass itself. But given its relatively low
concentration, beta-carotene from the cow’s milk alone will not produce the
orange hues that you see in some supermarket cheddars.
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Beta Carotene
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Orange hued cheddars will most likely have had Annato added
to them in processing. Annato is an extract from the seeds of the achiote tree
which is native to Central and South America. This food additive has a mild,
slightly floral nutty peppery flavor.
This natural coloring agent has antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory
properties due to its carotenoid content.  |
Annato seed pods, seeds, and extracts with bright orange color
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Annatto
has been linked to several potential health benefits, such as healthy eyes,
better heart health, and reduced inflammation. It may also have antioxidant,
anticancer, and antimicrobial properties.
Taste and Aroma of Cheddar Cheeses: Various studies have identified over 100 different odorants in cheddar
cheese, with the most important being those from the fermentation of the milk protein casein: ethanoic acid (sharp), butyric acid (sweaty, sweet), and methional (boiled potato), and from the milk fats: d-dodecalactone (coconut), and milk sugar lactose: furaneol
(caramel), homofuraneol (caramel) and butane-2,3-dione (buttery).
Blatchly Cottage Cheese Balls - The snack that (almost) sank a ship
It may have been the mid-80s, my sister and her boyfriend came up to the Finger Lakes to visit me and my boyfriend at his parents' cottage. Sister's boyfriend was clearly trying to impress us all with his sailing prowess - and with my sister as first mate - he was back and forth across the lake at a high heel and great speed. That was until we called them in to share in the just baked cheese balls that were always a big hit and went fast. He meant to skim past the dock on the sailboat and we all expected my sister to grab a handful on the way by - impressive no? But instead, my sister grabbed the whole platter of cheese balls, which upset the boat, which hit the dock, and both of them got dunked into the water which was about 4 ft deep. Miraculously, my sister managed to do a 360o tumble, but hold the cheese balls overhead and then stick her landing with the completely dry platter of cheese
balls. The boyfriend got dumped soon after. But the cheese balls and this recipe have become signature dish of summer at the cottage.
1 cup flour
1/2 t baking powder
1/2 cup butter
1/2 to 3/4 cup extra sharp cheddar that melts (see above)
1 T Worchestershire sauce
Soften butter, mix all ingredients by hand, then wrap and chill for about one hour. Shape into marble-sized balls, place on a cookie sheet about 2 " apart. Bake at 375oF for about 12 min or until browned.
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