In the Alchemists Kitchen - Vol 9 - What makes squid ink so delicious?

 In the Alchemist's Kitchen - What makes squid ink so delicious?

Let's talk about Cephalopods - that great category of animals that includes squid, octopus, and cuttlefish.  You probably know they live in the sea, lack shells, and have their feet stuck to their heads (Greeks named them for cephalo (head) -pods (feet)) and that they can give us some tasty foods to eat.  But it is their ink that I want to talk with you about today.  

Laval squid photographed by Joshua Lambus - National Geographic

 

All of these animals are known to squirt ink into the water - most likely as a defense mechanism that allows them to escape predators.  Apparently, this action can be quite sophisticated, with some ejections resembling shadows of their own bodies as doppelgangers to distract those hunting them while the actual animal escapes and at other times the ejections resemble the rope link tentacles of stinging jelly fish.  

But what about that ink, what is it made from, is it good for us, and how do we cook with it?

 One way squid ink can be consumed is as a marinade for squid or calamari (Calamares en Tinta) as shown here in a tin from Donostia Foods.

Squid Marinated in squid Ink

 

While the ink also contains free amino acids, peptidoglycans, catecholamines, and metals, it is primarily composed on melanin, a biological polymer made primarily from amino acid tyrosine. The large molecule is conjugated, which means it has alternating double and single bonds, and these alternating bonds are spread out over a large molecule.  This is the property that allows the molecule to absorb light and make the ink look brown.  It is the same molecule that pigments the skin of most humans where it is known to protect the skin from ultraviolet damage, particularly in the skins of those who live close to the equator.  

Melanin is a polymer with many alternating single and double bonds

 

But is it healthy? The answer is YES!  This natural product contains compounds that are antimicrobial, antioxidants, and don't worry about those metals.  They are in such low quantities and you need such a small amount of ink in your dish, you needn't worry.

And finally, here is a recipe from Jose Andres Longer Table Podcast, the inspiration for this volume of "In the Alchemist's Kitchen."

Squid Ink Pasta with Mussels 

Serves 4

24 mussels, 12 to 16 ounces depending on size

3 large garlic cloves

3 scallions, green tops only 

4 tablespoons Spanish extra-virgin olive oil

225 grams / 8 ounces vermicelli, broken into small pieces

1 4-ounce can squid in ink

Salt and pepper to taste

Parsley to garnish (optional)

Sort the mussels, discarding any that are open and cleaning the rest, removing any stringy beards that may still be attached. 

Bring 6 cups of salted water to a boil in a 2-quart pot. 

Peel and chop the garlic and the scallion tops, then grind them in a mortar and pestle, along with a generous pinch of salt, until mostly smooth.

Add the mussels to the boiling water and cook 2 to 3 minutes, removing them from the water as they open and placing them in a bowl to cool. Discard any mussels that do not open. Do not throw away the water—keep it at a low simmer on the stove, since you’ll be using it to cook the pasta.

In a large, heavy bottomed skillet, heat the oil until hot but not smoking. Add the pasta and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, for 3 to 4 minutes until it is light and golden brown.

Add the can of squid and ink, making sure to get all the flavorful sauce from the can. Stir the toasted pasta in with the ink, then add some of the mussel water—start with 2 cups and let it reduce while the pasta cooks. If it all evaporates and the pasta isn’t ready, add more. The pasta will cook quickly, in about 5 to 6 minutes.

Taste and season with salt and pepper. Remove the mussels from their shells and add to the pot. Serve immediately.